Customary control shapes access to sacred sites in Ndoso hills
Local reporting describes Pongkor Ngguling and Liang Nggam in Tentang Village, Ndoso, as sacred forest-rock landscapes where entry is controlled by customary leaders, not open tourism.
Editor: Mursyid Sonsang
· 4 min read
Labuan Bajo — Two forested rock landscapes known locally as Pongkor Ngguling and Liang Nggam in Tentang Village, Ndoso District, West Manggarai, have been described by local media as sacred areas where access is governed by customary authority rather than open tourism.
According to a report from Kupang-based Tribunnews, the sites lie within a protected forest zone in Lingko Wira, Puntu hamlet, Tentang, and feature exposed rock formations, a natural cave, and varied vegetation and wildlife. The article cites local guide Pater Andre Belongo, who presents the landscapes as places with strong spiritual and cultural meaning, not conventional sightseeing spots.
The same report notes that residents of Puntu generally do not use the area for recreation, in part to preserve its condition and to avoid exploitation. It emphasises local efforts to maintain the forest and rocky terrain in an undisturbed state, tying conservation practices to customary rules.
A landscape shaped by local meanings
In the Manggarai language, the names of Pongkor Ngguling and Liang Nggam are linked to the physical forms found in the area. Tribunnews explains that “pongkor” is used for a high, exposed rock, while “ngguling” refers to a rock with a sloping form. “Liang” denotes a natural cave, and “nggama” describes rocks pressed or positioned closely together.
Belongo is quoted as saying that stories about the origins of these features convey an earlier relationship between people and the natural world, when human life was seen as closely tied to surrounding forests, rocks and wildlife. In his account, the sites function as a way to remember and interpret that relationship.
The article further describes a continuing connection between the community and the landscape, expressed through customary knowledge passed down across generations. That knowledge is framed as a balance between people and nature, with rules intended to protect both the spiritual significance and the ecological condition of the forest.
Within this framework, Tribunnews does not depict Pongkor Ngguling or Liang Nggam as places open to unrestricted tourism. Instead, it reports that access is not granted to just anyone. Entry is reserved for the Tua, or customary leader, or someone delegated by that leader, reinforcing the idea that visitors must respect local authority.
For travellers, that reported practice means a map pin, a scenic photograph or a travel recommendation does not amount to permission to enter. Any visit would need to be arranged with the relevant community representatives, and prospective visitors should be prepared to follow instructions from customary leaders and their delegates.
Travel in Ndoso’s hill country
Tentang Village and Puntu hamlet sit within Ndoso District, one of 12 sub-districts in West Manggarai. Administrative records for West Manggarai list Tentang among Ndoso’s 15 villages, underscoring that Pongkor Ngguling and Liang Nggam lie in an inland hill and forest area rather than on the coastal tourism corridor around Labuan Bajo.
Other natural viewpoints in Ndoso, such as Pongkor Renca near Waebuka Village, have attracted attention as informal sunrise spots with views over cloud-covered valleys, but reports on those sites note limited facilities and the absence of formal management. In each case, visitors are advised to coordinate with landowners and local residents and to expect basic conditions.
By contrast, the coverage of Pongkor Ngguling and Liang Nggam stresses their sacred character and the role of customary authority, not any emerging tourism business. There is no mention of a booking platform, a designated tourism office in charge of the sites, fixed guiding arrangements or official visitor fees.
For now, these descriptions suggest that Pongkor Ngguling and Liang Nggam are best regarded as community-protected sacred landscapes. Travellers interested in the area should first confirm with Tentang Village authorities and customary leaders in Puntu whether visits are appropriate, under what conditions they might be allowed, and which activities are prohibited.
Any future inclusion of these landscapes in organised itineraries would depend on decisions by local leaders and residents. Until such arrangements are clearly established and communicated, outside visitors are expected to respect customary rules, seek explicit permission, and avoid presenting the area as an ordinary attraction for independent exploration.